From Conventional to Natural: The Natural Wine Revolution

Oct 02, 2024

The Natural Wine Revolution

In the world of wine, a quiet revolution has been fermenting for decades, with natural wine at its forefront. As a sommelier with over 10 years of experience, I've had the privilege of witnessing this transformation firsthand. It's a shift that goes far beyond the simple act of grape fermentation, touching on aspects of agriculture, chemistry, philosophy, and even cosmic rhythms.

Today's wine landscape is more diverse than ever before. We've moved from an era where wine was simply categorized as red, white, or sparkling, to a nuanced spectrum that includes conventional, organic, biodynamic, and natural wines. Each category tells a unique story of human interaction with nature, of tradition meeting innovation, and of the endless quest for the perfect expression of terroir. Natural wine, in particular, has become a beacon for those seeking a more authentic, unadulterated wine experience.

But here's something that might surprise you: despite the growing popularity of natural wines and their organic cousins, conventional wines still make up over 90% of global wine production. This statistic alone hints at the complexity of the wine world we're about to explore, and the uphill battle natural wine producers face in changing industry norms.

As we explore each category, prepare to have your preconceptions challenged. Did you know that there are over 60 additives approved for use in conventional winemaking in the EU? In contrast, natural wine aims to use none. Or that some biodynamic winemakers, whose practices align closely with natural wine philosophy, bury cow horns filled with manure in their vineyards? These are just a taste of the fascinating details we'll uncover.

Natural wine, with its emphasis on minimal intervention and maximum expression of the grape and its environment, stands as a testament to the potential of letting nature take the lead in winemaking.

So, let's dive into the hidden world of wine, with a special focus on the natural wine movement. I promise you'll never look at a bottle the same way again, especially when it comes to natural wine!

Conventional Wines: The Industry Standard

When you picture a modern winery, chances are you're imagining conventional winemaking. This approach, which accounts for over 90% of global wine production, is all about consistency, efficiency, and predictability.

In conventional vineyards, you'll find a arsenal of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides working to ensure a bountiful harvest. Irrigation systems stand ready to combat drought, while mechanical harvesters swiftly gather grapes at their peak ripeness.

Step into a conventional winery, and you'll see stainless steel tanks where fermentation is carefully controlled. Winemakers have a vast toolkit at their disposal - over 60 approved additives in the EU alone - to fine-tune every aspect of their wines. From sulfur dioxide for preservation to enzymes for clarity, and even tannin additions for structure, these tools allow for precise control over the final product.

But here's a little-known secret: many mass-produced red wines get their deep color and touch of sweetness from a concentrate called Mega Purple. Used in tiny amounts (just 0.1-0.2% of the total volume), it's the wine world's equivalent of a Instagram filter - enhancing color and adding a subtle sweetness that appeals to many palates.

The result? Wines that offer reliable, predictable flavors year after year, ensuring that your favorite bottle tastes the same whether you buy it in New York or New Delhi.

Key Characteristics of Conventional Wines

Emphasis on consistency and predictability
Use of synthetic chemicals in the vineyard
Mechanical harvesting common
Temperature-controlled fermentation
Wide range of permitted additives and interventions
Filtration and stabilization for clarity
Consistent flavor profiles year after year
Dominates global wine production (over 90% of total worldwide production)

Organic Wines: Nature's First Step

As consumers become more environmentally conscious, organic winemaking has gained significant traction. This approach represents a shift towards working with nature rather than trying to control it.

In organic vineyards, you won't find any synthetic chemicals. Instead, winemakers rely on nature's own systems to manage their vines. Cover crops flourish between rows, promoting soil health and keeping weeds at bay. Beneficial insects are encouraged to take up residence, acting as a natural pest control squad.

When it comes to disease management, organic winemakers have a more limited toolkit, primarily relying on copper and sulfur in carefully controlled quantities. This can make organic grape growing more challenging, especially in wetter climates where fungal diseases thrive.

In the winery, organic winemaking allows for some interventions, but the list of permitted additives is much shorter than in conventional winemaking. Sulfites, for example, can be added but in lower quantities - EU regulations cap sulfites in organic red wines at 100mg/L compared to 150mg/L for conventional wines.

Interestingly, Italy has emerged as a powerhouse in organic wine production. As of 2021, over 109,000 hectares of Italian vineyards - about 15% of the country's total - were certified organic. Sicily leads the charge, with nearly a third of its vineyards embracing organic practices.

Key Characteristics of Organic Wines:

No synthetic chemicals in the vineyard
Emphasis on natural pest and disease management
Often hand-harvested
Limited additives allowed in winemaking
Lower sulfite levels than conventional wines
Certified through rigorous processes
Growing market segment, especially in Europe

Biodynamic Wines: Harmony with the Earth

Taking organic principles even further, biodynamic winemaking views the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem. This holistic approach, based on the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, emphasizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and the wider environment.

At the heart of biodynamic winemaking is the idea of giving back to the earth. Biodynamic vineyards are teeming with life - not just vines, but also cover crops, farm animals, and wild areas that promote biodiversity. The goal is to create a balanced, self-regulating ecosystem that can thrive with minimal external inputs.

One of the most distinctive aspects of biodynamic winemaking is the use of special preparations to enhance soil and plant health. These include compost enriched with yarrow, chamomile, and other herbs, and sprays made from horn manure and silica. While some of these practices may seem unusual, many renowned winemakers swear by their effectiveness in promoting vine health and wine quality.

In the winery, biodynamic winemaking follows a minimal intervention approach similar to organic methods. The focus is on allowing the unique characteristics of the vineyard - its terroir - to shine through in the finished wine.

Key Characteristics of Biodynamic Wines:

Vineyard viewed as a self-sustaining ecosystem
Use of special biodynamic preparations for soil and plant health
Emphasis on biodiversity in the vineyard
Minimal intervention in the winery
Often follows organic principles plus additional practices
Certified by organizations like Demeter
Aims to express unique terroir
Associated with high-quality, distinctive wines

Natural Wines: The Purist's Approach

At the far end of the winemaking spectrum, we find natural wines. This movement, which has gained a passionate following in recent years, takes the concept of minimal intervention to its logical extreme.

Natural winemaking starts in the vineyard, where grapes are typically grown organically or biodynamically, though formal certification isn't always sought. The real distinctiveness of natural wines emerges in the winery, where the guiding principle is "nothing added, nothing taken away."

Fermentation in natural winemaking is a spontaneous affair, relying on native yeasts present on the grape skins. Temperature control is often removed, allowing fermentations to progress at their own pace. Additives are strictly avoided - even sulfites, which are omnipresent in most wines, are either eliminated entirely or added in only minute quantities at bottling.

This hands-off approach often results in wines with unique and sometimes challenging flavor profiles. Some natural wines exhibit a controversial characteristic known as "funk," a flavor reminiscent of mouse cage caused by lactic acid bacteria. While some enthusiasts embrace these unusual flavors as part of natural wine's charm, others view them as faults.

One fascinating aspect of the natural wine movement is its revival of ancient winemaking techniques. In Georgia, for example, some winemakers use qvevri - large, egg-shaped clay vessels buried underground - for fermentation and aging. This 8,000-year-old method has become a symbol of the natural wine movement, producing distinctive orange wines with extended skin contact.

Key Characteristics of Natural Wines:

Grapes typically grown organically or biodynamically
Spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts
No additives, or only minimal sulfites at bottling
No temperature control during fermentation
Often unfiltered and unfined
Can produce unusual or unexpected flavors aka "funk"
Embraces ancient winemaking techniques
Lacks official regulation or certification
Subject to ongoing debate about definition and quality standard

Environmental Impact: From Vine to Glass

As wine lovers, we often focus on what's in our glass, but it's equally important to consider the environmental footprint left behind by that delicious glass of our favourite wine. From the vineyard to your dinner table, each step in wine production has an environmental impact.

First, let's talk carbon footprint. Conventional wines typically leave the largest carbon boot print, mainly due to synthetic inputs and energy-intensive processes. Organic and biodynamic wines often fare better in the vineyard, but if you're sipping that biodynamic Bordeaux in New York, transportation emissions could tip the scales. Natural wines, with their minimal intervention approach, often boast the lowest carbon footprint - but again, distribution methods can make or break this eco-friendly image.

Now, let's talk packaging. Here's a positive trend that's lightening the load on our environment: lightweight bottles and alternative packaging. Some forward-thinking producers have put their wines on a diet, trimming bottle weight by up to 30%. This may not sound like much, but it adds up to significant cuts in transportation emissions.

Health Considerations: Separating Fact from Fiction

Now that we've cleared our conscience (somewhat) about wine's environmental impact, let's address another pressing question: what does wine do to our health?

First up, the great sulfite debate. If you've ever blamed your wine headache on sulfites, I hate to break it to you, but you're probably wrong about sulfites causing headcahe. Contrary to popular belief, sulfites in wine are not the headache-inducing villains they're made out to be. In fact one portion of dried apricots contains as much sulfites as 2 glasses of wine (conventional!). But you don't get headache from dried fruits, do you? They're more likely to cause breathing problems in some asthmatics. That red wine headache? It's probably down to other compounds like histamines or tannins. Sorry to disappoint, but at least now you know!

Here's something that might cheer you up: all wines contain antioxidants, particularly resveratrol, which has been linked to potential health benefits. Red wines generally lead the antioxidant race, with organic and natural wines potentially packing an extra antioxidant punch due to less filtration and processing.

Now, let's pour out some intriguing research: a 2019 study published in "Frontiers in Microbiology" suggested that natural wines might have probiotic properties. The study found higher levels of beneficial bacteria like Lactobacillus and Oenococcus in natural wines compared to conventional ones. Could your natural wine habit be supporting your gut health? While more research is needed, it's an exciting possibility.

But let's not get carried away with the potential benefits without acknowledging the risks. Alcohol content in wine can vary wildly, from a modest 5.5% to a robust 23% ABV. Climate change and evolving consumer preferences are pushing that average higher, with more wines tipping the scales above 14% ABV. While moderate wine consumption has been associated with some health benefits in certain studies, the World Health Organization reminds us that no level of alcohol consumption is completely safe. As with most things in life, moderation is key.

Conclusion

After we took a look at different types of wine, one thing becomes crystal clear: the wine landscape is as diverse and complex as the terroirs that shape it.

This diversity in production methods translates to a vast array of wines, each telling its own story of place, process, and philosophy. It's clear that there's no single "right" way to make wine. Instead, each method contributes to the rich tapestry of the wine world, offering consumers a wide range of choices to explore.

As we've seen, these choices extend beyond mere taste preferences. The environmental impact of wine production and the potential health effects of consumption are important considerations for many wine enthusiasts. Yet, at its core, wine remains a source of enjoyment and a conduit for cultural and social connection.

Whether you prefer the reliability of conventional wines, the eco-conscious approach of organic wines, the holistic philosophy of biodynamic wines, or the raw expression of natural wines, there's a whole world of flavors and stories to discover in every bottle.

FAQs

Q: What is the difference between natural wine and conventional wine?
A: Natural wine is made with minimal intervention, using organically or biodynamically grown grapes and native yeasts for fermentation. Conventional wine often involves synthetic chemicals in the vineyard and numerous additives in the winemaking process, aiming for consistency and predictability.

Q: Are organic wines sulfite-free?
A: No, organic wines are not sulfite-free. They contain naturally occurring sulfites from fermentation and may have added sulfites, albeit at lower levels than conventional wines. EU regulations cap sulfites in organic red wines at 100mg/L compared to 150mg/L for conventional wines.

Q: What makes biodynamic winemaking unique?
A: Biodynamic winemaking views the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem and follows a holistic approach. It uses special preparations to enhance soil and plant health, follows cosmic rhythms for vineyard activities, and emphasizes biodiversity.

Q: Do natural wines have health benefits over conventional wines?
A: While all wines contain antioxidants, some studies suggest natural wines might have higher levels of beneficial bacteria. However, more research is needed, and it's important to remember that no level of alcohol consumption is completely safe.

Q: How does wine production impact the environment?
A: Wine production can have significant environmental impacts, from carbon emissions to water usage. Conventional wines typically have the largest carbon footprint, while organic, biodynamic, and natural wines often have lower environmental impacts due to more sustainable practices.

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